East Cape to Hawkes Bay 2011/12

East Cape to Hawkes Bay 2011/12

only search Harmonie II
Use Site Map if CSS menu drop down does not work with iPhones, iPads or older machines.

Raukokore Church, East Cape


I should have realised from the journey we did five years ago that Pauanui to Hicks Bay was too far in one day. We travelled inland down through Rotarua which had the straightest and fastest roads but it still took us best part of eight hours driving. The weather had turned cloudy with mist hanging low over the hills so, unlike our previous trip, we were not seeing the East Cape at it's best.

At the Hicks Bay Motel we all ordered Gin & Tonic but what was served up tasted nothing like it, in fact Chris could not even drink it, something previously unheard of! We ordered our expensive (NZ$28) meals with some trepidation including salad. After a long wait they arrived with over cooked kumera and cauliflower cheese, the waitress explaining they were out of salad!

One of our regular readers has complained that I complain too much so I didn't complain and simply left the meal mostly intact. The waitress was obviously used to meals being left as she didn't ask me why I hadn't eaten it. On the plus side the motel unit was well provided with a full kitchen so I would advise anyone visiting this area to bring their own food.

Mother & foal at Raukokore Church, East Cape

You do not have much choice on the East Cape and at the Lottin Point Motel where we stayed last time, which still advertises itself as "the most modern motel on the Cape", the food was equally dire.
We did manage a stop or two on the way including Raukokore Church, beautifully situated on a rocky promontory where little blue penguins often nest. There was a sign in the church apologising for the fishy smell as the penguins were nesting under the font but we could see no sign of them.
Unwilling to risk breakfast in the motel restaurant we made do with what food we had brought with us and I concocted Philly cheese on dry toast with slices of salami on top then lightly grilled. It was suitably unpalatable!

Tikitiki Church interior, East Cape

We set off in dismal weather and searched in vain for the largest Pohutukawa tree in the world but could not find it. Byron told us to stop at the Tikitiki church which we did and here was some real history. It was built by the local Ngatiporou people as a memorial to the Maori battalions that fought in the two world wars and the interior is decorated throughout with Maori carvings. Most people would be unaware that the Maori battalions were formed entirely from volunteers as only the Pakehas (Europeans) were conscripted. The stained glass window behind the altar was made in Christchurch and depicts two of the soldiers who were killed in the first war, kneeling before a crucifix.

font at Tikitiki Church, East Cape

The font is a carving of the Maori chief who introduced Christianity to the local area and the whole church is an interesting mix of Maori and Christian religious symbols.

Byron had also said we should visit Ruatoria and when I asked why he had no answer. I have to report that nothing of interest was discovered in Ruatoria except Chris, who, following the Duke of Edinburgh's advice, is unable to pass by any public convenience without using it, opened the gents toilet door to be confronted by a large untrousered Maori having his elevensies and reading the paper!

On his first voyage of discovery, Captain Cook first landed on 9th October 1769 at the mouth of the river on which now stands the city of Gisborne where he killed a few Maori who he thought were attacking them. If the traditional Maori welcome used for greeting visiting dignitaries today was the same one with much tongue waggling and facial gestures, then it is hardly surprising he felt threatened. Unable to provision his ship he named the place Poverty Bay and sailed north to Tolaga Bay where we walked the 650m to the end of New Zealand's longest jetty.

Captain Cooks statue at Gisborne
Young Nicks statue at Gisborne

You can also walk from here the 4.5km to Cooks Cove where the great man landed but it's at Gisborne where he is commemorated with a statue of himself and another of ships boy Nicholas Young who first sighted the New Zealand coast where the headland is named Young Nicks Head.

We rented a lovely old house here, five minute walk to the city centre which only cost us NZ$100 a night. Unfortunately it was only available for two nights so the retail pleasures were rather restricted for Carol and Sue.

Captain Cooks bicentenial statue at Kaiti Hill, Gisborne

Chris & I had a look around the botanic gardens then drove up to the top of Kaiti Hill where we discovered yet another statue of Captain Cook. This statue was erected on the bicentenary of the landing and was cast in bronze from a model of the original marble statue, purchased in Italy in the late 19th century by the owner of the Captain Cook Brewery in Auckland.

The problem seems to be that the statue bears no resemblance to Cook and the uniform is not that of the British Navy as you can see from comparing the two statues so nobody knows who it is! The statue remains a source of delight to photographers and a source of embarrassment to historians!
The view from the observatory on top of Kaiti Hill takes in the whole of Gisborne and Poverty Bay across to the Mahia Peninsula, our next destination.

Gisborne from Kaiti Hill

Driving south out of Gisborne we once again visited Millton Winery and renewed our aquantance with all their organic and biodynamic wines. As I have said before, I regard the biodynamic label as a bit of nonsense but anyone who goes to those lengths to grow vines has to be a perfectionist when it comes to the wine making and it shows.

Millton Vineyard

We came out with a few bottles of their excellent Dry Flint Chenin Blanc which is still their speciality, a Gewurztraminer which is the first vintage from five year old vines and a delicious sweet wine for our Christmas Pudding, Mistelle, made from Muscat grapes fortified with grape alcohol. It is they say "...Aging over many years, evaporating and concentrating until every few years we can't help it anymore and bottle it..." when you could be fooled into thinking it was a gold medal Baume de Venise. You can buy it in the UK from Vintage Roots.
Stopping for a brief hot bath at Morere Hot Springs we continued on to Mahia Beach where we rented a huge beachside villa for four days called Bella Vista, appropriately named as you can see from the photograph taken from its balcony.

Mahia Beach from our balcony

After a journey into Wairoa for provisions and to raid the ATM for cash to pay the rent, Chris received a call from Australia to announce the birth of his daughter Claire's triplets. They were ten weeks premature, tiny but were all breathing unaided weighing in at just over 700g each. Olivia was the first born quickly followed by Willow and finally Mackenzie so Chris went out and bought a bottle of Moet and we wet the three granddaughters heads in some style. These are critical days now due to how premature the babies are and they will remain in hospital for a further ten weeks which is when Chris and Carol are due to arrive in Sydney, bang on time for a bit of wet nursing!

About 7km further along the peninsula is the Kinikini reserve which has a 3.5km bush trail through the coastal forest. Sue and I wandered sedately round it, first to a lookout across Hawkes Bay and then descending into a valley following a river to a picnic place before climbing back to the start.

Foxgloves on the Kinikini reserve.
Kinikini reserve, Mahia Peninsula

The weather stayed fine for the four days we spent on the peninsula before heading south again to the fleshpots of Napier where we will spend three weeks which will include Carol's and my birthdays, the Christmas and New Year holidays in a luxury apartment beside the Harbour at Ahururi.

Elaine, the nice lady in the local shop who manages the villa letting, turned up on our last day there with two big fresh crayfish which we ate almost immediately with a salad washed down with a bottle of Hawkes Bay Chardonnay and declared them the best fish dish so far on this trip. Back in the UK they would have cost a kings ransom but out here they are a staple diet it seems!

Hawkes Bay from Kinikini reserve. Mahia peninsula

Also on our last day we all went up Mokotahi Hill which is the headland you can see in the photo above taken from our balcony. At least I went to the top but the rest of the pikers chickened out 150m from the summit trig. From here you look North back down on the main Mahia Beach township where I have marked the location of our Bella Vista villa.

Mahia Beach from Mokotahi Hill, Mahia peninsula

You can make out the sea on the other side of the narrow ismuth which connects Mahia Beach to the mainland, then in the opposite direction the smaller more sheltered beach looking South along the peninsula.

Mahia Beach from Mokotahi Hill looking South, Mahia peninsula

We arrived at Napier and checked into our rented apartment. This was the day that a webmaster of some repute was born some 71 years ago so I bought them all fish and chips to celebrate.

The neonatal team preparing to catch the triplets.

Grandfather Hockeys new arrivals, the O'Connor triplets, are reported to be making good progress. Here you can see some of the neonatal team who delivered them and Willow, the second triplet to be born. Claire is recovering but a little sore and proud Dad Josse is also sore from his Ozzie cricket team being beaten by 7 runs in the second test at Hobart! We told him we were well impressed with his Ozzie swimmers though!

It was Carols birthday on 13th December so another celebration was in order and she had a large array of restaurants from which to choose.

Triplet Willow - all 727 grams of her!

We have an internet connection in our Napier apartment so communications are a bit easier for the next three weeks. We wandered around the harbour area checking the plethora of restaurants within easy walking distance of the apartment.

We walked along the fish quay where the fishing boats were unloading their catches. There were boxes of Ling and one of the fisherman told us that some of their innards are regarded by the Chinese as an aphrodisiac and fetch NZ$200 per kg! We also discovered one of the classic art deco buildings, the National Tobacco Company building.

On returning to the car park in the apartment complex I backed the car out, not noticing a small steel stanchion just behind the drivers door and crunched the front wing. A visit to the local repair shop quoted NZ$1000 to fix it so serves me right for not being more careful. However, the repair bloke said he would get his electrician to see if he could fix the seat belt switch problem and if not he would try to get a replacement.

We drove along the bay to buy some fruit from one of the orchards, apricots, peaches, nectarines veggies and avocados then back into Napier for a wander around the centre and collect some tourist information.

View from our Napier apartment balcony

Back at the apartment, Sue and Carol relaxed in the heated swimming pool while I brought the web site up to date. We also have the use of an excellent Gymnasium so you can expect to see some TTT bods (trim taut and terrific) by the time we leave!

I managed to locate a seat belt switch using the net for NZ$200 but before purchasing took the car to an Auto Electrician who plugged his computer in and was unable to find a fault so he simply cancelled the SRS alarm and the air bags are now functional.

Art Deco National Tobacco building
He warned me that it may happen again and if it does we should visit the local sparkie who will repeat the process and counselled us not to spend money as it is a well known problem with Honda Avanciers. These Kiwis are restoring my faith in human nature and this bloke would not even let me buy him a pie let alone a beer saying he was too fat already!

The panel repair shop guy knocked NZ$100 off the quote as he had found a cheaper wing which was another bit of good news. I doubt if a UK repair shop would pass on such savings to it's customers. We find this attitude to service all over New Zealand. People just want to help you get what you want for the best price, even if it means their own firm will not get the business which in the longer term will ensure your return.

Twe Mata peak

We drove to the Sunday farmers market in Hastings to get some goodies for Christmas then on to Havelock North and the top of Te Mata peak (pictured above looking towards Hawkes Bay). Lunch was taken at Te Awa winery. We first tasted all their wines so we could decide what to order with our lunch.

Rogers pudding at Te Awa restaurant

Sun dried tomato bread with local olive oil and Dukkah dip put us in the mood then the girls had an assiette of fish which included just about every type of fish and shellfish in the sea on a leek, celery and carrot risotto and the boys had Panko coated Hapuka (my favourite NZ fish) with proper chips (not frozen), Greek salad and tartare sauce, all washed down with an unoaked Chardonnay and all delectable. We all had something different for pud which was arranged so artistically that Chris had to take a photograph of it and we all tasted each others. I also indulged in a glass of pudding wine, a 2009 Noble Chardonnay, honey sweet with a sharp finish. All this good food and wine in lovely surroundings served by a pretty little Kiwi for about £30 a head which we thought was a steal.

Here is a short rant, especially for Courtney back in Somerset. New Zealand television is the pits and someone ought to do something about it. We tried to watch a film the other night which was twice as long as normal as it is 50% adverts, in fact sometimes the adverts are better than the programmes!! We all ended up going to bed early as this time even the adverts were crap!! They even run the adverts across the bottom of the screen when you are trying to watch the cricket and in the Rugby World Cup they didn't kick off until the adverts had finished! And Courtney, it's my web site and if I want to rant I will. If you don't like the rants you don't have to read it! End of rant.

Jazz band and period dress in Napier with lovely pair of buttocks!

Arriving back in our apartment car park there was another car with the drivers door badly dented and the wing mirror completely missing. Obviously made the same mistake as me but I bet the local repair shop does a roaring trade in offside wings, doors and mirrors and should have an advertising billboard at the park exit!

Our Christmas preparations continued with various shopping expeditions into Napier and while the car was being repaired we travelled by bus back and forth.

Sun Princess sailing from Napier

The cruise liner "Sun Princess" was in port and while the passengers pottered around the shops and cafés they were entertained, as we were, by a jazz band dressed in 1930's style playing "Temperance Seven" numbers accompanied by suitably dressed locals. "Sun Princess" sailed away north the next day and we watched her from our apartment balcony.

We accumulated quite a pile of presents to each other and the girls have bought a few presents for themselves! We ordered a beef sirloin to roast for Christmas day dinner and one of the locals promised us a couple of crayfish but they didn't materialise.

Boundary Stream Reserve

The weather was cold and often wet after we arrived in Napier. The locals said it was normally boiling hot at that time of the year but when it eventually improved we set off into the hills on a walking expedition. Our objective was the Boundary Stream Reserve where Sue and I elected to walk the Bell Rock track climbing to over 1000 metres while the Hoks walked a low level route up a valley to the Shine Falls.

Kiwi Sue crossing road
The most southerly palm in flower

It was blowing from the cold south on top and with the wind chill was probably down to single figures so we hurried down and arrived back on the road over an hour before the Hoks were due to pick us up. As we walked down the road towards them we came on a Kiwi crossing sign peppered with the usual bullet holes so I recorded a Kiwi crossing.

The palms that grow here are, I think, the same ones that are planted all around Torquay in Devon where they are called the Torbay Palm. Here they grow to twice the size and were flowering spectacularly.

Santa comes to Hastings

We met a young lady in the local Tapas Bar called Nicki who enticed us to her parents place one day and as it was a brewery we did not object! The Filter Room is a micro brewery that produces six different beers and six different ciders. You pay NZ$15 for a tasting tray and get six small glasses of whatever you want. We rather liked the pear perry and bought several bottles. Then it was on to Hastings which was in festive floral mood. Hanging baskets of Busy Lizzies festooned the main street from end to end and flying around the front of the municipal building was Santa on his sleigh.

Hastings Spanish and Art Deco

I really like Hastings even better than Napier and they have an eclectic mix of Art Deco and Spanish architecture. Here you can see a shot showing the Spanish architecture whilst in the foreground are the latest modern street lamp standards which they have made art deco and a single track working railway line which goes right through the city centre and even bisects the fountain right in the centre.

Havelock North just a few miles away is a delightful "Carmel" type of place where we found a good butcher and purchased his prize winning sausages plus a cooked ham on the bone. He told us that Christchurch had just had another serious earthquake force 6 and we will be there in a few weeks. Hope our motel is still standing!

Our final visit was to the Farmers Market at the Hastings showground where we stocked up on fresh fruit and veg and found some excellent black pudding for breakfast whilst munching pizza cooked in a mobile wood fired oven by a mad German!

Gormless Courtney

We had a long skype with the Petherton Friday Night in the Brewers Society, it being Friday night there but Saturday morning here. Here you can see one of them, Courney Salway, who continually criticises me for criticising things on this web site. As you can see he looks, and is, completely gormless!

Carol rose early on Christmas Eve and trotted across the road to get a couple of crayfish for our supper then it was off around the bay to visit Church Road, Moana Park, Crossroads and C J Pask Wineries to find a full bodied red for Christmas dinner. Church Road won the contest so we returned there to make our purchase. Another indulgence was the Silky Oak Chocolate company where Choc-a-holics like Chris can get their fix, rather spoiled by placing our chocolate selections in a paper bag rather than a box like they do in Belgium.

Olivia, Willow and Mackenzie

The O'Connor triplets are doing fine and you can see them all together here for the first time.

Here they are, Olivia, Willow and Mackenzie, aged 15 days, who send their Christmas greetings to one and all. This is the first time they have all been together since their birth and we are pleased to report that all are doing fine.
They have now opened their eyes and are taking their first look at the world, still about 10 weeks before they were supposed to.

The four of us would like to wish all our readers the very best for the festive season. Most of you are freezing your socks off in dear old Pommieland or 'barged' in Bruge while we laze around in the Hawkes Bay sunshine but heck, we can take it. We will miss you all though, especially the Otter!

Christmas Day breakfast was the traditional scrambled egg and smoked salmon washed down with a bottle of bubbly with the subtle difference that it was ate on the balcony of our apartment looking over Napier Harbour and the Pacific Ocean on a gloriously hot sunny day. Then Chris could not contain his excitement further so we opened our presents.

Waipatiki Beach on Charistmas Day
Frolicking in the surf on Christmas Day

Santa Sue had managed to buy us all something Kiwi like Chocolate covered Pineapple Chunks, Jaffas (chocolate balls covered in an orange sugar coating), Chocolate Hokey Pokey (butterscotch like Crunchie bars), chocolate fish (pink marshmallow) and silicone cut outs of a rugby ball, shirt and player in which to fry your eggs. Santa Carol, not to be outdone, bought some Kiwi Poo (chocolate covered raisins) for me and a dental kit for Chris! We also exchanged nice pressies with each other then drove off to the beach. We found a really nice one just North of Napier called Waipatiki where we frolicked in the surf and managed to get a little burnt.

Chris and Rog in Sheep Shaggers Grundies

Back in the apartment the girls prepared our Christmas dinner whilst the boys posed on the balcony drinking Steinlager Pure in their sheep shaggers grundies much to the delight of the local ladies. You can see an enlargement of the motif which is all over the grundies. We do have one criticism, especially for Courtney, in that there should really be more buttons on the fly as the willie is prone to pop out, good for quick action when in sheep shagging mode but not when one is posing on a balcony in full public view.

Dinner was a large beef sirloin roast with Yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes, runner beans, broad beans, baby carrots and horseradish sauce washed down with a couple of bottles of Church Road 2009 Reserve Syrah. This was followed by a Cagsie Trifle that contained brioche, cream, custard, raspberry jam, raspberries, banana, boysenberries, white chocolate ganache, hazlenuts and almonds. This was accompanied by a Mistelle Muscat from Millton Vineyard in Gisborne. We then tackled some 24 months old vintage Cheddar which we washed down with a glass of Hawkes Bay, Gimblett Gravels, Mills Reef 2007 vintage port. Largely replete we relaxed with a nice glass of Glenmorange and a few chocolate liqueurs before retiring for the night. Happy old Christmas!

The Optimist fleet sails out of harbour

Just below us in the harbour is the Napier Sailing Club who are hosting the Optimist Dinghy World Championship. An Optimist dinghy is a little over 2 metres long and is a cheaply constructed boat in which young people learn to sail. The boats are identical so it is only the skill of the skippers that is tested. On this occasion there are 48 countries entered, each with a team of four youngsters aged up to 15 years so that's an awful lot of boats when they all set sail as you can see from the picture above with the fleet tacking against the prevailing wind out of the harbour.

The Mission Estate winery, Napier

On New Years Eve we caught a taxi to the Mission Estate Winery. We first tasted a few of their wines and decided on a bubbly and a reserve Cabernet Merlot to accompany our lunch. The meal was good but not up to the Te Awa standard, neither were the wines. Chris's steak was blue when he had ordered it medium but when he mentioned it they refunded the cost in full! Perhaps we should have all complained?

Sue and Roger at the Mission Estate winery, Napier
Chris's monster choc pud

As you can see above, Chris made up for his disappointing steak by tackling a giant chocolate pud with which he struggled to finish.

The weather continued to be poor with torrential rain which rather put a damper on the local festivities. Not that there was much to report and there was not even a New Years Eve special on TV to let us know when to kiss each other! A few fireworks went off and we went out on our balcony to exchange greetings with the few others who seemed awake, then off to bed.

Carols slip in the cemetery
A land slip on Bluff Hill, Napier

New Years day was spent at the races apart from "Miserable Roger" who stayed in and cooked! The other three broke even on the horses. The weather had improved so we decided to walk into Napier over Bluff Hill and through the botanic gardens. Carol managed to fall over on slippery mud in the old cemetery at the top of the hill so she had the excuse to buy a new pair of trousers!

MV Dawn Princess

Looking back up the hill there was a big slip with a house perched precariously on the edge. They are still building houses up there at the edge of the hill which provides far from solid foundations. What with being on an earthquake zone it seems a strange thing to be doing.

A big cruise ship was in port so Napier was again buzzing with a jazz band and loads of vintage cars swanning around the town. We walked back around the shore passing the "Dawn Princess" on the way.

Our last day in Napier we had planned a day on the beach but the sky was overcast so we prepared for our journey the next day down to Windy Wellington via Balmy Palmy.

Last Modified: